Services for your Pet
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
Saturday, December 4, 2010
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
Saturday, October 30, 2010
Sunday, October 24, 2010
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
Friday, September 17, 2010
My new furry friend Lunchmeat.
Lunchmeat is a happy girl now that she gets to stay home when mom and dad go on vacation, instead of the dreaded kennel.
Angus opening food dish
Angus showing that no self feeder is going to stop him from
his favorite meal
Monday, August 23, 2010
Saturday, July 24, 2010
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Monday, June 21, 2010
Wednesday, June 2, 2010
Thursday, May 13, 2010
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
Sale of 'Pet Postage' stamps begins
Sale of 'pet postage' stamps begins in post offices
A new postage stamp dedicated to adopting pets went on sale on Monday.
It is part of the U.S. Postal Service's Adopt a Shelter Pet commemorative postage stamp campaign, with the theme "Stamps to the Rescue."
The goal of the campaign is to increase public awareness about sheltered pets and to encourage pet adoption and promote humane and responsible pet care.
For more information about the stamp program, visit www.stampstotherescue.com.
Source: Robby Douglas Citrus Daily
A new postage stamp dedicated to adopting pets went on sale on Monday.
It is part of the U.S. Postal Service's Adopt a Shelter Pet commemorative postage stamp campaign, with the theme "Stamps to the Rescue."
The goal of the campaign is to increase public awareness about sheltered pets and to encourage pet adoption and promote humane and responsible pet care.
For more information about the stamp program, visit www.stampstotherescue.com.
Source: Robby Douglas Citrus Daily
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Gunner will rule the world, or at least the dog show circuit
I may be a little guy now, but one day I will rule the world...or at least the dog show circuit
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Wednesday, April 14, 2010
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
How to Help your dog weather a storm
Maybe you've heard the stories about animals that signal the approach of a storm. Cows lie down. Crows fly low to the ground. Spiders leave their webs.
And dogs, apparently, go flat-out berserk.
"I've heard of dogs that have actually jumped through screen doors," said Deb Boswell, a dog behavior therapist in West Des Moines. "Their first response to a storm is fight or flight. They don't really understand that they can't get away from it."
Research indicates that dogs are sensitive to changes in barometric pressure and even electrical charges in the air, which often go haywire before the onset of the storms that roll across Iowa about this time every year. Some animals respond in mild ways, such as pacing or panting, while others become more destructive.
Quantcast
Fortunately, there are ways to help dogs (and to a lesser extent, cats) overcome their fears. We asked Boswell, who works with the dog-training company Bark Busters (barkbusters.com), and a few other experts for their best advice.
— Make sure your dog has an ID tag or an implanted microchip. It's important Fido can be identified if he makes a mad dash out of the house or yard. Along those lines, keep him away from any doors or gates where he could escape.
— Create a safe place. Sometimes dogs will seek out a safe place on their own, but if they need a little guidance, section off a quiet den-like area where they can feel secure. Close any windows and curtains, and lead the dog to the space before the storm arrives.
Keep in mind that some dogs relax more easily after discharging the static build-up that accompanies the electrical imbalance in the atmosphere, so they'll seek out electrically grounded locations, such as pipes, a toilet or bathtub in the basement.
(Just as Register reporter Mike Kilen, whose 80-pound boxer-Lab mix made a beeline for the bathroom during a storm last week.) Boswell suggests setting out a natural rubber mat to ease a dog's stressful reaction to an approaching storm.
If your dog must remain outside, cover the doghouse or kennel with cardboard or a light-weight blanket to block out bursts of lightning.
— Put your dog in a crate. Since dogs can become destructive when they're scared, a crate is the best way to keep them safe and your belongings intact. If you don't use a crate, remove any items that your dog could damage or that could hurt your dog if he chewed them.
— Remain calm. Dogs can pick up on human behavior. If you remain calm, they might follow your lead. If you go bonkers, so will they.
Mick McAuliffe, an animal behavior specialist with the Animal Rescue League of Iowa, knows of a woman who suffered from a fear of storms (technically, keraunophobia) and crawled under a table whenever one approached. Her dog did the same.
— Set up distractions. Give your dog a good rub down or toss around a chew toy. Turn on the TV or quiet music on the radio. Boswell says harp music is particularly effective.
"I tell you, I put it on once and thought 'Oh my gosh, I'm about to fall asleep,' " she said.
She also recommends music produced by "Through A Dog's Ear" (throughadogsear.com), which develops music specifically for dogs and donates free CDs to animal shelters.
— Wrap your dog in a blanket. Bianca Zaffarano, a clinician at the primary care department of Iowa State's College of Veterinary Medicine, suggests wrapping your dog securely in a blanket or a jacket.
There are specially designed anti-anxiety blankets with metallic linings to neutralize electrical imbalances (anxietywrap.com), but plain old bedspreads usually do the trick.
— Expect piddle. Extreme fear can make some dogs incontinent. Just be prepared and try not to react if they make a mess.
— Condition your dog to get used to noise. To give your dog some practice, play a recording of a thunderstorm and gradually increase the volume.
Boswell, who lives near Jordan Creek Town Center, cooked up a similar trick to help her dogs prepare for the fireworks displays at Christmas and the Fourth of July: She tosses a clunky object — a brush works well — into the dryer about an hour before the fireworks begin. The irregular clanks and bangs help Lucy and Paddy get used to the outdoor noise that follows.
— Consider "doggy downers." In extreme cases, sedatives may be the best way to help your dog — but only temporarily.
"You're basically just putting out fires," Zaffarano said. "You can pop them with drugs, but the drugs themselves don't work that well unless you start them with some kind of desensitization protocol" — such as the thunderstorm recording or the brush-in-the-dryer trick — "before storm season arrives."
And remember: If you do decide to sedate your dog, consult your veterinarian first and never (never!) give your dog human medications.
"The bottom line is: You gotta help the dog," Boswell said. "If you don't deal with the issue, the dog is never going to get over it on its own."
Source: By MICHAEL MORAIN • mmorain@dmreg.com • April 13, 2010
And dogs, apparently, go flat-out berserk.
"I've heard of dogs that have actually jumped through screen doors," said Deb Boswell, a dog behavior therapist in West Des Moines. "Their first response to a storm is fight or flight. They don't really understand that they can't get away from it."
Research indicates that dogs are sensitive to changes in barometric pressure and even electrical charges in the air, which often go haywire before the onset of the storms that roll across Iowa about this time every year. Some animals respond in mild ways, such as pacing or panting, while others become more destructive.
Quantcast
Fortunately, there are ways to help dogs (and to a lesser extent, cats) overcome their fears. We asked Boswell, who works with the dog-training company Bark Busters (barkbusters.com), and a few other experts for their best advice.
— Make sure your dog has an ID tag or an implanted microchip. It's important Fido can be identified if he makes a mad dash out of the house or yard. Along those lines, keep him away from any doors or gates where he could escape.
— Create a safe place. Sometimes dogs will seek out a safe place on their own, but if they need a little guidance, section off a quiet den-like area where they can feel secure. Close any windows and curtains, and lead the dog to the space before the storm arrives.
Keep in mind that some dogs relax more easily after discharging the static build-up that accompanies the electrical imbalance in the atmosphere, so they'll seek out electrically grounded locations, such as pipes, a toilet or bathtub in the basement.
(Just as Register reporter Mike Kilen, whose 80-pound boxer-Lab mix made a beeline for the bathroom during a storm last week.) Boswell suggests setting out a natural rubber mat to ease a dog's stressful reaction to an approaching storm.
If your dog must remain outside, cover the doghouse or kennel with cardboard or a light-weight blanket to block out bursts of lightning.
— Put your dog in a crate. Since dogs can become destructive when they're scared, a crate is the best way to keep them safe and your belongings intact. If you don't use a crate, remove any items that your dog could damage or that could hurt your dog if he chewed them.
— Remain calm. Dogs can pick up on human behavior. If you remain calm, they might follow your lead. If you go bonkers, so will they.
Mick McAuliffe, an animal behavior specialist with the Animal Rescue League of Iowa, knows of a woman who suffered from a fear of storms (technically, keraunophobia) and crawled under a table whenever one approached. Her dog did the same.
— Set up distractions. Give your dog a good rub down or toss around a chew toy. Turn on the TV or quiet music on the radio. Boswell says harp music is particularly effective.
"I tell you, I put it on once and thought 'Oh my gosh, I'm about to fall asleep,' " she said.
She also recommends music produced by "Through A Dog's Ear" (throughadogsear.com), which develops music specifically for dogs and donates free CDs to animal shelters.
— Wrap your dog in a blanket. Bianca Zaffarano, a clinician at the primary care department of Iowa State's College of Veterinary Medicine, suggests wrapping your dog securely in a blanket or a jacket.
There are specially designed anti-anxiety blankets with metallic linings to neutralize electrical imbalances (anxietywrap.com), but plain old bedspreads usually do the trick.
— Expect piddle. Extreme fear can make some dogs incontinent. Just be prepared and try not to react if they make a mess.
— Condition your dog to get used to noise. To give your dog some practice, play a recording of a thunderstorm and gradually increase the volume.
Boswell, who lives near Jordan Creek Town Center, cooked up a similar trick to help her dogs prepare for the fireworks displays at Christmas and the Fourth of July: She tosses a clunky object — a brush works well — into the dryer about an hour before the fireworks begin. The irregular clanks and bangs help Lucy and Paddy get used to the outdoor noise that follows.
— Consider "doggy downers." In extreme cases, sedatives may be the best way to help your dog — but only temporarily.
"You're basically just putting out fires," Zaffarano said. "You can pop them with drugs, but the drugs themselves don't work that well unless you start them with some kind of desensitization protocol" — such as the thunderstorm recording or the brush-in-the-dryer trick — "before storm season arrives."
And remember: If you do decide to sedate your dog, consult your veterinarian first and never (never!) give your dog human medications.
"The bottom line is: You gotta help the dog," Boswell said. "If you don't deal with the issue, the dog is never going to get over it on its own."
Source: By MICHAEL MORAIN • mmorain@dmreg.com • April 13, 2010
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Wednesday, March 17, 2010
14th Annual Wag-A-Tail walk-a-thon in Vegas April 18th
14th Annual wag-A-tail walk-A-thon
April 18th
at Kellogg-Zaher Park (Summerlin Pkwy. /Durango.)
One Dapper Dog and Four Fido Finalists will be featured in the
April 27st Neighborhood Views, receive fabulous gift baskets
April 18th
at Kellogg-Zaher Park (Summerlin Pkwy. /Durango.)
One Dapper Dog and Four Fido Finalists will be featured in the
April 27st Neighborhood Views, receive fabulous gift baskets
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
Wednesday, March 10, 2010
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
Nikki and Rosie, my new furry friends
Nikki loves to play chase me and try and get my bone away, and Rosie loves to lounge
outside and enjoy the beautiful afternoon in Vegas
Friday, February 26, 2010
Thursday, February 11, 2010
How to give a cat a pill
1) Pick cat up and cradle it in the crook of your left arm as if holding a baby. Position right forefinger and thumb on either side of cat's mouth and gently apply pressure to cheeks while holding pill in right hand. As cat opens mouth, pop pill into mouth. Allow cat to close mouth and swallow.
2) Retrieve pill from floor and cat from behind sofa. Cradle cat in right arm (To avoid wound on left arm) and repeat process.
3) Retrieve cat from bedroom, and throw soggy pill away.
4) Take new pill from foil wrap, cradle cat in best arm, holding rear paws tightly with hand. Force jaws open and push pill to back of mouth with forefinger. Hold mouth shut for a count of ten.
5) Retrieve pill from goldfish bowl and cat from top of wardrobe. Call spouse from garden.
6) Kneel on floor with cat wedged firmly between knees, hold front and rear paws. Ignore low growls emitted by cat. Get spouse to hold head firmly with one hand while forcing wooden ruler into mouth. Drop pill, put down ruler and rub cat's throat vigorously.
7) Retrieve cat from curtain rail, get another pill from foil wrap. Make note to buy new ruler and repair curtains. Carefully sweep shattered figurines and vases from hearth and set to one side for gluing later.
8) Wrap cat in large towel and get spouse to lie on cat with head just visible from below armpit. Put pill in end of drinking straw, force mouth open with pencil and blow through straw.
9) Check label to make sure pill is not harmful to humans, drink 1 beer to take taste away. Apply Band-Aid to spouse's forearm and remove blood from carpet with cold water and soap.
10) Retrieve cat from neighbor's shed. Get another pill. Open another beer. Place cat in cupboard, and close door onto neck, to leave head showing. Force mouth open with dessert spoon. Flick pill down throat with elastic band.
11) Fetch screwdriver from garage and put cupboard door back on hinges. Drink beer. Fetch bottle of scotch. Pour shot, drink. Apply cold compress to cheek and check records for tetanus shot. Apply whiskey compress to cheek to disinfect. Toss back another shot. Throw Tee shirt away and fetch new one from bedroom.
12) Call fire department to retrieve the f------ cat from tree across the road. Apologize to neighbor who crashed into fence while swerving to avoid cat. Take last pill from foil wrap.
13) Tie the little bastard's front paws to rear paws with garden twine and bind tightly to leg of dining table, find heavy-duty pruning gloves from shed. Push pill into mouth followed by large of steak filet. Be rough about it. Hold head vertically and pour 2 pints of water down throat to wash pill down.
14) Consume remainder of Scotch. Get spouse to drive you to the emergency room, sit quietly while doctor stitches fingers and forearm and remove pill remnants from right eye. Call furniture shop on way home to order new table.
15) Arrange for SPCA to collect the "cat from hell" and call local pet shop to see if they have any guinea pigs.
How to Give a Dog a Pill
1) Wrap it in bacon. Drop on the floor
2) Retrieve pill from floor and cat from behind sofa. Cradle cat in right arm (To avoid wound on left arm) and repeat process.
3) Retrieve cat from bedroom, and throw soggy pill away.
4) Take new pill from foil wrap, cradle cat in best arm, holding rear paws tightly with hand. Force jaws open and push pill to back of mouth with forefinger. Hold mouth shut for a count of ten.
5) Retrieve pill from goldfish bowl and cat from top of wardrobe. Call spouse from garden.
6) Kneel on floor with cat wedged firmly between knees, hold front and rear paws. Ignore low growls emitted by cat. Get spouse to hold head firmly with one hand while forcing wooden ruler into mouth. Drop pill, put down ruler and rub cat's throat vigorously.
7) Retrieve cat from curtain rail, get another pill from foil wrap. Make note to buy new ruler and repair curtains. Carefully sweep shattered figurines and vases from hearth and set to one side for gluing later.
8) Wrap cat in large towel and get spouse to lie on cat with head just visible from below armpit. Put pill in end of drinking straw, force mouth open with pencil and blow through straw.
9) Check label to make sure pill is not harmful to humans, drink 1 beer to take taste away. Apply Band-Aid to spouse's forearm and remove blood from carpet with cold water and soap.
10) Retrieve cat from neighbor's shed. Get another pill. Open another beer. Place cat in cupboard, and close door onto neck, to leave head showing. Force mouth open with dessert spoon. Flick pill down throat with elastic band.
11) Fetch screwdriver from garage and put cupboard door back on hinges. Drink beer. Fetch bottle of scotch. Pour shot, drink. Apply cold compress to cheek and check records for tetanus shot. Apply whiskey compress to cheek to disinfect. Toss back another shot. Throw Tee shirt away and fetch new one from bedroom.
12) Call fire department to retrieve the f------ cat from tree across the road. Apologize to neighbor who crashed into fence while swerving to avoid cat. Take last pill from foil wrap.
13) Tie the little bastard's front paws to rear paws with garden twine and bind tightly to leg of dining table, find heavy-duty pruning gloves from shed. Push pill into mouth followed by large of steak filet. Be rough about it. Hold head vertically and pour 2 pints of water down throat to wash pill down.
14) Consume remainder of Scotch. Get spouse to drive you to the emergency room, sit quietly while doctor stitches fingers and forearm and remove pill remnants from right eye. Call furniture shop on way home to order new table.
15) Arrange for SPCA to collect the "cat from hell" and call local pet shop to see if they have any guinea pigs.
How to Give a Dog a Pill
1) Wrap it in bacon. Drop on the floor
Friday, February 5, 2010
Diary of a cat
Day 983 of my captivity...
My captors continue to taunt me with bizarre little dangling objects. They dine lavishly on fresh meat, while the other inmates and I are fed hash or some sort of dry nuggets.?
Although I make my contempt for the rations perfectly clear, I nevertheless must eat something in order to keep up my strength.
The only thing that keeps me going is my dream of escape. In an attempt to disgust them, I once again vomit on the carpet.
Today I decapitated a mouse and dropped its headless body at their feet. I had hoped this would strike fear into their hearts, since it clearly demonstrates what I am capable of. However, they merely made condescending comments about what a 'good little hunter' I am. Bastards.
There was some sort of assembly of their accomplices tonight. I was placed in solitary confinement for the duration of the event. However, I could hear the noises and smell the food. I overheard that my confinement was due to the power of 'allergies.' I must learn what this means and how to use it to my advantage.
Today I was almost successful in an attempt to assassinate one of my tormentors by weaving around his feet as he was walking. I must try this again tomorrow -- but at the top of the stairs.
I am convinced that the other prisoners here are flunkies and snitches. The dog receives special privileges. He is regularly released - and seems to be more than willing to return. He is obviously retarded.
The bird has got to be an informant. I observe him communicating with the guards regularly. I am certain that he reports my every move. My captors have arranged protective custody for him in an elevated cell, so he is safe. For now ....
Diary of a Dog
8:00 am - Dog food! My favorite thing!
9:30 am - A car ride! My favorite thing!
9:40 am - A walk in the park! My favorite thing!
10:30 am - Got rubbed and petted! My favorite thing!
12:00 pm - Lunch! My favorite thing!
1:00 pm - Played in the yard! My favorite thing!
3:00 pm - Wagged my tail! My favorite thing!?
5:00 pm - Milk Bones! My favorite thing!
7:00 pm - Got to play ball! My favorite thing!
8:00 pm - Wow! Watched TV with the people! My favorite thing!
11:00 pm - Sleeping on the bed! My favorite thing!
Monday, January 25, 2010
Cruciate Ligament injury in Dogs
The cruciate ligament is a major part of the canine knee. Cruciate injury is one of the most common orthopedic complications seen in dogs. Sometimes called ACL or CCL tear, a ruptured cruciate is often a painful and immobilizing injury. While not a serious or life-threatening injury, it is still one that must be addressed for the sake of your dog. As a dog owner, it is relatively likely you will eventually see this injury occur in one of your dogs. It is important to understand the signs and treatments of this injury, as well as know how to prevent it.
Brief Anatomy of the Canine Knee:
The knee, or stifle, is a complex joint comprised of the patella (kneecap), cartilage called the menisci, and a series of ligaments connecting the femur (thigh bone) to the tibia (shin bone). Together, these components enable the joint to function properly. The knee has two essential stabilizing ligaments that cross over one another inside the knee joint. They are called the cranial (or anterior) cruciate and the caudal (or posterior) cruciate. Malfunction of even one part of the knee can cause a great degree of discomfort and lameness. Of the many knee injuries that can occur, cruciate injury is the most common.
Causes of Cruciate Ligament Injury:
A cruciate ligament injury can occur in dogs for several reasons. In some cases, it is simply the result of an athletic injury in a healthy dog. This could even mean landing "wrong" when running or jumping. Overweight or obese dogs are definitely more prone to this type if injury, as they carry more weight and often have weakened joints. Additionally, some dog breeds are predisposed to cruciate ligament injuries.
While cruciate rupture cannot always be prevented, keeping your dog at a healthy weight and providing plenty of exercise (not too strenuous) can minimize the risk.
When Cruciates Go Bad:
A cruciate ligament injury is the result of a partial or complete rupture (tear). The cranial (anterior) cruciate ligament is the one more commonly affected, though the caudal (posterior) can rupture as well. When the cruciate ligament tears, the tibia moves freely from under the femur, resulting in pain and abnormal gait. Sudden lameness in a rear leg is often the first sign of injury. If a the injury remains unaddressed, arthritic changes can begin quite quickly, causing long-term lameness and discomfort. If your dog shows signs of pain or lameness, it is best to have your vet do an exam within a couple of days.
Diagnosing Cruciate Ligament Rupture:
Your vet will perform an orthopedic examination, trying to isolate the pain to a specific area and ruling out injury to the foot, hock or hip. If a knee injury is suspected, your vet will check for a cranial drawer sign - this involves manipulating the femur and tibia to feel for instability. A positive drawer sign occurs when the tibia can be moved forward independent of the femur, mimicking the motion of opening a drawer. Stifle radiographs (x-rays) may also be performed to check for arthritis or fractures. In a few cases, a referral for more advanced diagnostics may be recommended, such as arthroscopy or MRI.
Conservative Management of Cruciate Ligament Rupture:
While most dogs with cruciate injuries require surgery, a small number will improve with conservative therapy. This mostly involves several weeks of cage rest, with very brief, calm leash walks for bathroom breaks only. Some vets will place knee braces or prescribe anti-inflammatory medication, but these methods are most often ineffective. A small percentage of dogs will eventually recover with cage rest, but typically these are dogs that weight less than 25 or 30 pounds. Even the dogs that do recover can re-injure the knee in the future, or even tear the cruciate ligament on the other knee.
Surgical Repair of Cruciate Ligament Rupture:
The preferred method of cruciate ligament repair is surgical. In general, prognosis is good. However, there are different surgical approaches, each with its pros and cons.
The traditional surgical procedure is often called the "extracapsular repair." In this method, the damaged ligament is removed and a very strong suture essentially replaces the function of the cruciate ligament. The tissue of the knee heals over several months and the suture eventually breaks, leaving the healed tissue to stabilize the knee. This is a relatively quick and uncomplicated procedure that can be successful in many dogs, especially medium and small dogs. It is less expensive than other methods, but long-term success is not excellent.
An increasingly popular surgical option is called the tibial plateau leveling osteotomy (TPLO). This is a significantly more complex procedure than the traditional extracapsular method, and must be performed by a specially trained veterinarian - specifically a board certified surgeon. The TPLO alters the mechanism of the knee joint, allowing it to function properly without a cruciate ligament. A cut is made into the top of the tibia (tibial plateau). Then, the tibial plateau is rotated to change the angle and a metal plate is affixed keep the bone in place. Over several months, the bone heals into its new position. Partial improvement can be seen within days. However, full recovery will take several months, so cage rest is essential. Generally, long term prognosis is very good, and re-injury is uncommon. The plate does not need to be removed unless problems occur later. As with any surgery, complications are possible. The TPLO is significantly more expensive than the traditional surgery.
A third and newer surgical method is called the tibial tuberosity advancement (TTA). Like the TPLO, the TTA allows the knee to function without a cruciate ligament. The details of this method are slightly different, but the TTA still involves cutting of the tibia and placement of hardware. Some surgeons describe the TTA as a less invasive procedure than the TPLO - and with a faster recovery. However, other surgeons see little difference. The dog's anatomy is also a deciding factor. Cost of the TTA is comparable to the TPLO.
Regardless of the surgery type, a post operative resting period of eight weeks or more is crucial to the healing process. In addition, physical therapy is often recommended and can be extremely successful for long term recovery.
Source: Dogs.com
Brief Anatomy of the Canine Knee:
The knee, or stifle, is a complex joint comprised of the patella (kneecap), cartilage called the menisci, and a series of ligaments connecting the femur (thigh bone) to the tibia (shin bone). Together, these components enable the joint to function properly. The knee has two essential stabilizing ligaments that cross over one another inside the knee joint. They are called the cranial (or anterior) cruciate and the caudal (or posterior) cruciate. Malfunction of even one part of the knee can cause a great degree of discomfort and lameness. Of the many knee injuries that can occur, cruciate injury is the most common.
Causes of Cruciate Ligament Injury:
A cruciate ligament injury can occur in dogs for several reasons. In some cases, it is simply the result of an athletic injury in a healthy dog. This could even mean landing "wrong" when running or jumping. Overweight or obese dogs are definitely more prone to this type if injury, as they carry more weight and often have weakened joints. Additionally, some dog breeds are predisposed to cruciate ligament injuries.
While cruciate rupture cannot always be prevented, keeping your dog at a healthy weight and providing plenty of exercise (not too strenuous) can minimize the risk.
When Cruciates Go Bad:
A cruciate ligament injury is the result of a partial or complete rupture (tear). The cranial (anterior) cruciate ligament is the one more commonly affected, though the caudal (posterior) can rupture as well. When the cruciate ligament tears, the tibia moves freely from under the femur, resulting in pain and abnormal gait. Sudden lameness in a rear leg is often the first sign of injury. If a the injury remains unaddressed, arthritic changes can begin quite quickly, causing long-term lameness and discomfort. If your dog shows signs of pain or lameness, it is best to have your vet do an exam within a couple of days.
Diagnosing Cruciate Ligament Rupture:
Your vet will perform an orthopedic examination, trying to isolate the pain to a specific area and ruling out injury to the foot, hock or hip. If a knee injury is suspected, your vet will check for a cranial drawer sign - this involves manipulating the femur and tibia to feel for instability. A positive drawer sign occurs when the tibia can be moved forward independent of the femur, mimicking the motion of opening a drawer. Stifle radiographs (x-rays) may also be performed to check for arthritis or fractures. In a few cases, a referral for more advanced diagnostics may be recommended, such as arthroscopy or MRI.
Conservative Management of Cruciate Ligament Rupture:
While most dogs with cruciate injuries require surgery, a small number will improve with conservative therapy. This mostly involves several weeks of cage rest, with very brief, calm leash walks for bathroom breaks only. Some vets will place knee braces or prescribe anti-inflammatory medication, but these methods are most often ineffective. A small percentage of dogs will eventually recover with cage rest, but typically these are dogs that weight less than 25 or 30 pounds. Even the dogs that do recover can re-injure the knee in the future, or even tear the cruciate ligament on the other knee.
Surgical Repair of Cruciate Ligament Rupture:
The preferred method of cruciate ligament repair is surgical. In general, prognosis is good. However, there are different surgical approaches, each with its pros and cons.
The traditional surgical procedure is often called the "extracapsular repair." In this method, the damaged ligament is removed and a very strong suture essentially replaces the function of the cruciate ligament. The tissue of the knee heals over several months and the suture eventually breaks, leaving the healed tissue to stabilize the knee. This is a relatively quick and uncomplicated procedure that can be successful in many dogs, especially medium and small dogs. It is less expensive than other methods, but long-term success is not excellent.
An increasingly popular surgical option is called the tibial plateau leveling osteotomy (TPLO). This is a significantly more complex procedure than the traditional extracapsular method, and must be performed by a specially trained veterinarian - specifically a board certified surgeon. The TPLO alters the mechanism of the knee joint, allowing it to function properly without a cruciate ligament. A cut is made into the top of the tibia (tibial plateau). Then, the tibial plateau is rotated to change the angle and a metal plate is affixed keep the bone in place. Over several months, the bone heals into its new position. Partial improvement can be seen within days. However, full recovery will take several months, so cage rest is essential. Generally, long term prognosis is very good, and re-injury is uncommon. The plate does not need to be removed unless problems occur later. As with any surgery, complications are possible. The TPLO is significantly more expensive than the traditional surgery.
A third and newer surgical method is called the tibial tuberosity advancement (TTA). Like the TPLO, the TTA allows the knee to function without a cruciate ligament. The details of this method are slightly different, but the TTA still involves cutting of the tibia and placement of hardware. Some surgeons describe the TTA as a less invasive procedure than the TPLO - and with a faster recovery. However, other surgeons see little difference. The dog's anatomy is also a deciding factor. Cost of the TTA is comparable to the TPLO.
Regardless of the surgery type, a post operative resting period of eight weeks or more is crucial to the healing process. In addition, physical therapy is often recommended and can be extremely successful for long term recovery.
Source: Dogs.com
Sunday, January 24, 2010
The Secret Life of the Dog is a BBC Horizon production that highlights recent research into a variety of issues relating to dogs and the dog-human bond.
For the last couple of weeks, this program has been all the buzz in dog training and dog club e-mail lists. Although the BBC blocked the program from viewers outside the United Kingdom, it is available on YouTube here in a six-part video, each part about 10 minutes in length.
The program addresses issues about how dogs were domesticated, and what their genetic history is - how they can read us and we them; how important they are for our health and well-being; how close they are genetically, but not behaviorally to wolves; how genetics controls aggression and nonaggression; how intelligent they are; and how their DNA holds great promise for treating many of the diseases that they have in common with humans.
At the end of the program, we know why the dog is "Man's Best Friend."
The program is well-made, full of information, and fascinating. Check it out.
Bruce and Tracy Willoughby have taught dog training for several years.
For the last couple of weeks, this program has been all the buzz in dog training and dog club e-mail lists. Although the BBC blocked the program from viewers outside the United Kingdom, it is available on YouTube here in a six-part video, each part about 10 minutes in length.
The program addresses issues about how dogs were domesticated, and what their genetic history is - how they can read us and we them; how important they are for our health and well-being; how close they are genetically, but not behaviorally to wolves; how genetics controls aggression and nonaggression; how intelligent they are; and how their DNA holds great promise for treating many of the diseases that they have in common with humans.
At the end of the program, we know why the dog is "Man's Best Friend."
The program is well-made, full of information, and fascinating. Check it out.
Bruce and Tracy Willoughby have taught dog training for several years.
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
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